11 July 2008- Friday
The train arrived at Ube at 7:30 in the morning and everyone went out to await their busses. Our tour guide was very fluent in English but definitely Mongolian. After a very quick tour in the main square in town which had just been hosed down and was dominated by a beautiful state building including a massive statue of Genghis Khan in the center of the square. He was a warrior who led the battle to freedom of Mongolia from china. After that, I was being harassed to buy pictures and post cards, which I did, then, off to the stadium. At the stadium, it was basically a mob scene with busses, cars and every sort of transportation vehicle. It was very colorful, but we were moving too fast to take a lot of pictures of Mongolians in their native dress. We found our portal of entry and the guide insisted that we take our seats in the hot, sunny stands because we did not want to lose our good seats. This being accomplished, they launched a sort of dress rehearsal in the center of the ring, which was much smaller I expected the stadium to be. Still, pretty professionally done. Shortly after 12-noon, the program started with the Mongolian state band playing their fanfares and raising the flag, followed by the cavalry coming in and carrying the standards of nine horse tails tied to a pole, which is the symbol of Mongolian aristocracy. Once these were in the stands and guarded by four Mongolian ___men, the cavalry rode by. Mistake number 1: I should have captured that on the video, but instead tried to get some good close-up shots of the costumes. Two of them came out. The next thing was the opening speech by the president of Mongolia, who was dressed in native costume and, fortunately, gave a short speech followed by the national anthem for which we all stood. Looking around, I noticed there were many, many Europeans in the audience, although there were Mongolians there also. The opening ceremony took place, led by a bunch of Buddhist demons that appeared and there was a ballet of contortionists who performed and looked like lotus blossoms that eventually opened up its leaves and let the contortionists do their thing. Once this was all done along with a couple of parades of various costumes, the people who approached were the wrestlers, archers, and the jockeys for the various events after which was a short parade and people began to go their different venues. Once we left the stadium, we fought our way over to the archery stadium, which was much smaller, which was beautiful grass strips with targets at the end. All the contestants were in Mongolian garb. I understand that they were equipped with 300 pound pole bows, but there were a lot of women in there who I don’t think were shooting a bow of that strength. Before we left the stadium, they had begun to do Mongolian wrestling which was, basically, Sumo wrestling with one wrestler trying to throw the other one to the ground. Once one wrestler hits the ground, the match is over. Of course, the one that falls on the top is the winner of that bout – and this goes on for a couple of days. Interestingly enough, the men were wearing shirts which only covered their back and sleeves and not their chests. The story goes that there was once a woman competitor unknown to everyone else who actually won the competition and the men considered this such a big put-down that they decided that from now on, the front of the garb has to be open so that they can be sure they’re not wrestling a woman. This being over, we went back to our busses. We were supposed to go up to view a monument on Freedom Hill, overlooking Ube, but this was called off by Michel who said that the traffic jams resulting from the festival were too big to tackle. Everybody was sort of near exhaustion by the time we got back to the train which departed shortly after we climbed aboard. So much for the Nadam Festival. I was surprised that we could pack so much into one day.
Labels: Trans Siberian RR